At Central Saint Martins' 2026 BA show, Polina Kadilnikova, a Ukrainian womenswear student, secured the coveted first prize for her collection. This recognition occurred despite the prominent display of four innovative menswear designers, including Yuki Naka, Finley Maguire, Harvey Bigg, and Shane Elias, according to WWD.
The fashion industry frequently expresses interest in identifying 'menswear designers to watch.' However, the most significant awards at a prestigious institution like Central Saint Martins favored a womenswear collection and multiple sustainability initiatives. This created a tension between industry rhetoric and institutional validation.
Future industry recognition at premier fashion schools will likely increasingly hinge on designers' ability to integrate broader societal and environmental concerns into their collections, beyond aesthetic innovation in a specific category.
Menswear Designers to Watch in 2026
- Yuki Naka drew inspiration from his grandparents' letters, creating denim looks printed with these letters and an oversized knit sweater infused with bubbles, according to a report.
- Finley Maguire's collection explored English tastes, incorporating hand-tufted rug elements and silk onesies, inspired by his grandfather's house, WWD reported.
- Harvey Bigg's designs featured masked characters in gradient trenchcoats and hand-dyed colors. These were inspired by childhood folktales and artist Ashley Wood, according to WWD.
These collections reveal a trend toward deeply personal narratives and unconventional material applications in emerging menswear.
Prioritizing Sustainability in Fashion Awards
Polina Kadilnikova's womenswear collection received the top prize at the Central Saint Martins 2026 BA show, Vogue Co Uk reported. Yuki Naka, a menswear designer known for soap-based garments, also secured the H&M Sustainable Fashion Award, according to a report.
The disproportionate awarding of top prizes to womenswear and sustainability at CSM signals a shift in what premier fashion institutions deem 'cutting-edge' design. Pure menswear innovation risks a secondary role.
The Evolving Criteria for Designer Recognition
For emerging menswear designers, the path to industry recognition at top institutions like Central Saint Martins increasingly demands a strong sustainability narrative or a pivot to womenswear. It moves beyond solely relying on unique aesthetic or conceptual innovation.
Future Directions for Menswear Innovation
The emphasis on deeply personal narratives in showcased menswear, like Naka's, Maguire's, and Bigg's, reveals a rich vein of individual creativity. Yet, this personal innovation alone failed to secure the top prize. Menswear, to gain significant institutional recognition, must increasingly align with broader ethical industry trends.
The future of menswear recognition at elite fashion schools appears to hinge on its capacity to transcend aesthetic innovation, embracing broader ethical and environmental imperatives.
